Toilet Installation Brighton CO

Toilet Installation in Brighton, CO: Check Before You Buy

• Rough in. Measure from the wall to the center of the flange bolts. Twelve inches is common. Older homes may differ.
• Bowl shape. Round or elongated. Check the clearance in the bathroom.
• Height. Standard or comfort height.
• Flush type. Gravity, pressure assisted or dual flush.
• Flange. If it is cracked or below the floor level, it needs repair.

Toilet Installation Brighton CO: The Flange Decides Everything

The closet flange is the ring at floor level that anchors the toilet and connects the bowl to the drain. It is invisible once the toilet is set, and it is the part that most often causes trouble later.

• Flange height. The top of the flange should sit on the finished floor, or slightly above it. If it sits below the floor, because someone tiled over it, the wax ring cannot compress against it. The toilet leaks or rocks. A flange spacer or extension ring corrects small differences.
• Material. Cast iron flanges in older homes can be cracked or rusted. PVC and ABS flanges in newer homes can be thin. A replacement or repair ring is cheap compared with a subfloor.
• Slots and bolts. The closet bolts slide into slots on the flange. They must be square to the wall, straight and firmly held. A bolt that spins, or a flange with broken ears, is a reason for a repair ring.
• Anchoring. The flange should be screwed into solid subfloor, not just resting on it. A flange that moves will move the toilet.

Toilet Installation Brighton CO: Rough In, Bowl Shape and Comfort Height

Rough in is the distance from the finished wall to the center of the flange bolts, or to the center of the drain. Measure from the finished wall, not the baseboard. Twelve inches is the most common, and it is the first number to confirm for toilet installation Brighton CO orders. Ten inch and fourteen inch rough ins exist, and older bathrooms can be off by an inch or two. A 12 inch toilet in a 10 inch space sits an inch and a half too close to the wall. A 10 inch toilet in a 12 inch space leaves a gap the wall trim makes obvious.

Count on two people for the lift. A typical model weighs more than most people can carry alone safely, and a dropped bowl is a total loss.

Setting the New Toilet: Wax Ring, Bolts, Supply and Shutoff

1. Shut off and drain the old toilet. Disconnect the supply. Unbolt the tank if separate, and lift out the bowl. Stuff a rag in the drain opening to keep out sewer gas.
2. Scrape the old wax off the flange. Inspect the flange for cracks and check that it is level and firm.
3. Set new closet bolts in the flange slots and use a plastic retainer or nuts to hold them upright.
4. Place a new wax ring on the flange or on the horn of the bowl. A waxless seal is an alternative on some installs. Never reuse an old wax ring.
5. Lower the bowl straight down over the bolts, press firmly and twist a little to seat it. Do not lift and reposition, or the seal is ruined.
6. Add the washers and nuts and tighten in turns, alternating sides, until snug. Overtightening cracks the porcelain. Trim the bolt ends and set the caps.
7. Mount the tank on the bowl with the gasket and bolts, and tighten them evenly.
8. Connect a new braided stainless steel supply line from the angle stop to the fill valve. Hand tight, then a quarter turn with a wrench.
9. Open the stop slowly, let the tank fill, flush several times and check the base and the connections for weeping.

Do not reuse an old supply line or a stiff angle stop. Multi turn stops use rubber washers that harden. Quarter turn stops are smoother and easier to shut off in an emergency. Replacing both is part of a proper toilet replacement. A silicone bead around the base, with a small gap at the back, is optional and keeps mop water from getting under the bowl.

Toilet Replacement Brighton CO: Colorado Rules and City Permits

Colorado law states that plumbing fixtures sold in the state must be WaterSense listed, including water closets. The rule applies to sales, and a toilet bought at a local store or online for delivery here will meet it. It does not tell you how a toilet must be installed.

For permits, the City's Do I Need a Permit handout lists a plumbing fixture removed and replaced in the same location as exempt. A new bathroom, a moved toilet or a changed drain line calls for a permit. Ask the plumber, and read the plumbing permit guide.

In a house with a slab or a basement, a toilet drain sometimes ties to a lower line. A backup at a basement toilet during a main line blockage is a reason to ask about a backwater valve. See sewer backup emergency.

Where This Applies Across Brighton

Calls for this work come from every part of Brighton, and the details change by area. Start with the Brighton plumbing service area for ZIP codes and the Adams and Weld County split, then read the notes for Todd Creek Village or Brighton Crossings. Related work sits under the toilets overview.

What a Proper Install Includes

1. Shut off the supply and drain the old toilet.
2. Remove it and inspect the flange and subfloor.
3. Scrape the old seal. Fit a new wax ring or a waxless seal.
4. Set the toilet, tighten the bolts evenly and check that it does not rock.
5. Connect a new supply line. Replace the shutoff valve if it is stiff or corroded.
6. Flush, check for leaks and test the fill.

Call (720) 953-7060 and describe what you see. The same call covers toilet replacement Brighton CO and toilet replacement Brighton CO. So do calls about new toilet install Brighton.

Toilet Installation Questions From Brighton

Related pages

• ToiletsRepair running, clogged and leaking toilets.
• Running Toilet RepairStop a toilet that keeps running.
• New Construction PlumbingPlumbing for new builds, additions, ADUs and remodels.